Some DSLR cameras today offer multiple exposure mode. These include the Nikon D3, D300, D2H, D2X, D200 and D80, the Pentax K10D and * istD, Pentax Optio 550, and the Fujifilm Fine Pix S5, S3, S2 and S1. This is not a complete list see the camera manual to see if your camera has to be this option.
When you combine multiple images with layers in Photoshop and other image editing software to connect to there a number of benefits that can shoot in the camera, as you canto do with the film. The D300 uses the raw data from the sensor of the camera and be able to summarize the information / data from a maximum of 10 shots in a single file. This eliminates the need to work with the opacity and blending of multiple files and work offers a softer image, with less integration effort. With the help of the Auto-gain is set, no need for individual claims after the opening of the first adjustment and shutter speed.
Although you can use a fixed focal length macroLens when shooting multiple images, zoom lens provides a "macro", the one advantage of not using the camera or the position of each flower display. For these recordings I have a Tamron AF 28-300mm XR Di LD Aspherical (IF) Macro lens 1:3.5-6.3. While not a true macro lens offers 1:3 magnification.
One of the main ingredients of a successful multi-exposure photography is the choice of a subjectthat is suitable for this process. Flowers offer a variety of shapes, colors and contrasts that blend so the final image. These attributes contribute to the unique photographs produced with the use of multiple exposures. Using the techniques described in this article, you can reach a brightness and transparency that goes beyond single photograph flower show.
Setting the white balance (WB) is preferable to allow the camera to auto white balance, to determine the colorTemperature. By shooting in RAW format, you can also choose to supplement the World Bank after exposure to each image. If you experience WB settings that you can get tonal variations, which will enhance the photo.
A dark background provides a nice contrast with bright flowers, and also blends well with subsequent exposures. I use black paper tubes for the majority of white, yellow and pink flowers. It 'a good idea, the settings of the first and the last zoom program, checkProportion of flowers and the background in the frame. One technique I like to use is to start at the minimum focal length, where a large amount of background in the frame and then gradually the focal length for each shot. Each successive zoom setting changes the focal length to reach the maximum extent. If we use is the 28-300mm zoom as an example the total change from the shortest to the longest focal length 272 mm. Suppose a record 10 shots. Ourfirst show will be the last to 28mm and 300mm, so that leaves 8 shots to share, where our offer. With a little 'closer for easy positioning of the focal length, the sum of the settings 28, 60, 90, 120, 150, 180, 210, 240 and 300 mm for the 10 entries. Sometimes instead of rigid divisions I just look through the lens and the zoom after what seems to look good to me, because I record every show.
You can also startzoom setting next to the flower, filling the frame and then gradually decrease. It 'important if you use this technique to start with the camera close to the flower. In the case of the Tamron 28-300mm for the shorter distance, the focus is about 19 cm. The zoom is then in the later stages, so that in the last exhibition of the flower almost fills the frame with just a little 'background adjustedshows.
The final image was created with multiple exposures are often difficult to visualize. One of the advantages of digital is the ability to control the image immediately after capture and remove the camera settings and placement of flowers.
The lighting is equally important in the multiple exposure photography as in a single exposure photograph. I am happy to be a skylight, which provides a diffuse light source to have the flowers. If you must use the flash Irecommends the use of umbrellas or soft box to preserve the structural details of the flowers.
Due to the length of time required to take multiple exposures as described above, it is necessary to control the positioning of the flower, camera, lighting and background.
Because if I start, I do not know exactly how much time I photographed a single flower, as I prepared to fresh water with some plant foods, most flower shops will give you free ifBuy flowers. When the photo session covers in a few days, as you come up with new ideas, you'll be grateful if the flower with food!
I begin with the leveling of the surface on which is placed the flower. It 'a good idea to start with a fairly long stem on the flower and the flower in a vase, which provides a stable support area. From a long stem, you can take the flower from below, offering a unique perspective that I rarelyseen a photograph of flower as the majority of people on the petals, pistil and stamen focus is from the top or side. With a flourish and laid on a flat surface, you can rotate the vessel in order to achieve any angle you wish. Like the flower that turns the light on the petals and the position has changed from the camera lens. Many different shapes and contrasts can be achieved through the use of this technology and can often lead a very abstract model, which can be veryattractive. Turning the flower on a singe point of a spiral effect can be achieved.
The use of a tripod to stabilize the camera. I would also recommend the use of mirror lock / shutter lag and a timer or remote release. Position the stand at the first picture and the level of the camera. There is also a good idea, the angle of the camera parallel to the plane of the position of flowers, and when maximum depth is desired,Set the aperture to f/16 of/22. In general, I shot in aperture priority mode.
I hope these tips and guidelines is a good starting point for exploring the multiple exposure photography offer.